Paula Stanghetta July 1, 2021One of the best ways to immerse yourself in local Italian culture is to seek out a Sagra (plural Sagre) – festivals (fiere) that celebrate local foods or food products. One festival that has stood the test of time is the Fiera del Vino or Wine Festival, thanks to 3 letters: “EST”. The ancient festival takes place in Montefiascone, a town about 100 km northeast of Rome, and home of the famous Moscatello wine.
Montefiascone
The town grew to prominence in the 13th and 14th centuries when it was a popular residence for popes. Unfortunately, the 18th century saw the plague and an earthquake, which severely diminished its glamour. However, the town is strategically located on a high hill overlooking Lake Bolsena and boasts a stunning view that goes from the Tyrrhenian Sea to the Cimini mountains. It has abundant vineyards and hence, the perfect opportunity for a wine festival.
A Tipsy German Bishop
Every year, from the end of July to the middle of August, the town relives the story that is the heart of the festival. History has it that a German bishop and renowned enologist, Johanness Defuk, was on his way to Rome in the 12th century and stopped in Montefiascone. He sent his valet out to find the taverns with the best wine, instructing him to write the word ‘est’ (Latin for ‘it is’).
The valet was so impressed with the local wine that he wrote the word three times: ‘est est est’ on a local tavern door. Apparently, the bishop agreed with his valet so much so, that, instead of carrying on to Rome, he stayed in Montefiascone until his death, some say of drinking too much wine!
The bishop left a sum of 24,000 silver coins to sprinkle on his coffin each year in tribute to the town of such delicious wine; and so a wine festival was born!
Fiera del Vino and a Bottle of Est! Est! Est!
Today, the wine is known as Est!!Est!!Est!! and is a blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes.The Festival includes an elaborate nighttime torchlight parade through the historical centre. During the festival, the town hosts medieval games, dances, and shows. There is likely a little wine-tasting going on as well!
This is a wine story worth telling and a festival worth seeing – when you want to live life with the locals.
